Troyes, France


Feeling as under as the weather and hugely contrary, we decided to take a ride in the driving wind and rain to the lovely little town of Troyes, existent since the Roman era (GPS prononces this tee-raw).  We’d been here years ago when my husband was bitten by a monkey in Mali and needed several rabies shots.


Troyes has a fabulous 13th century cathedral St. Peter and St. Paul that is worth a visit. Pity about my trembling hands; I even had it on automatic and it still didn’t help.  Oh well.


If you are in this region, you really should visit Troyes.  It’s a medieval town with the same narrow streets and houses like back in the day.


We would love to have one of these ancient apartments in this town center, although my husband says the buildings are crooked.


So what did we decide to do for lunch in this old, old town with its vibrant covered market and its numerous, quality bistros and brasseries?  Crotchety, contrary, grouchy and just plain ridiculous, we decided to eat at the English pub, the James Joyce.  Really!  Sometimes we’re inexcusable!


Yes, we chose it but we were immediately prepared to criticize, a la M. Parret.  The butter; not near the best quality (less than President) and served in little one pat packages.  Bad. To be fair, the salmon was good but for some reason, the cherry tomatoes on the salad were roasted.  I asked.  We figured it was an English thing.  Roger would know.


In an restaurant, we absolutely hate it when our condiments are served in little packages! So why did we choose a restaurant that was almost certain to do this?  I don’t know.  Our minds are not right.


The food was edible but we don’t like big fries.  We ordered an outrageously priced bottle of wine to be sure that it was at least the quality of table wine and that was a good idea.


I totally believe that Roger Stowell  is right about taking automatic pictures; the camera doesn’t really know, you do.  All these pictures are taken on automatic and I don’t believe this is exactly what I saw but whatever, I couldn’t be bothered.


My husband ordered a Charolais beef hamburger that was correct.  I had the duck breast that was also correct.  When asked how I wanted it cooked, I answered “normal” in a grumpy old lady way and it was, more or less; I like it a little more rare.  See above.  Don’t have the Cafe Gourmand.


Would we eat here again?  Probably not.  It was perfectly edible, but it’s because this is not the food we want to eat in France.  Our fault totally.


About cookinginsens

An American living in Burgundy, France
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19 Responses to Troyes, France

  1. Pingback: Troyes, France | Skipping Stars Productions LLC

  2. cecilia says:

    Your camera was very inspired focussing on the woman’s umbrella, and I think the windows look very abstract. Sometimes I think when you are feeling thoroughly rotton there is nothing like having a thoroughly rotton lunch on a thoroughly rotton day, but on a beautiful street. Thank God you had a lovely bottle of wine!.. Take care darling girl.. c

  3. Oh we’ve driven past Troyes many a time but without the time to stop. I thought you would be served faux English/Irish food…
    I think Celi summed it up x

  4. 76sanfermo says:

    Wish I were in Troyes! Thanks for this beautiful post!

  5. Mad Dog says:

    It looks like a lovely town and those stained glass windows are amazing 🙂

  6. Michelle says:

    One year we were always driving through a Place Clémenceau in some town or another, which our GPS insisted on pronouncing Clem-On-See-You. Glad you found some beauty in the day.

  7. Conor Bofin says:

    The auto setting is a real pain. On Christmas morning, we usually do the Goal Mile (a charity run). I was reduced by a sinus infection to chief photographer and dog minder. I got some good enough shots but with one of our group finishing, he ended up out of focus in all 5 shots. I got great images of a house across the street though!
    I hope 2014 is better for you and that you get the news for which you hope,

  8. Karen says:

    You might not have been happy with your photos or your restaurant but you two shared a nice bottle of wine together and made the most out of a not so pleasant day. Wishing the two of you only good things in the New Year.

  9. Eating at an English Pub in France is asking for trouble…and it appear that you got it! I’ve never been to Troyes, but I hear it is the centre for wholesale outlets for all the big fashion labels. Try that next time instead of salmon with roast cherry tomatoes:)

  10. Cecile says:

    “Tee-ray” looks like such a lovely place. LOL !!! I always love eating/drinking at English Pubs. When we lived in Malta there were two we frequented – which were owned by actually Brits!! The food in Malta was fabulous but, sometimes, you need a change of pace away from risotto etc.
    PS My friend’s cell phone announces ‘Sea-Syle” when my name “Cecile” comes up !!

  11. What an interesting town. I love old towns like that. Such character. Shame about the meal. Seems they were intent on keeping alive the stereotype of bad English food. Which is rotten given that English food isn’t bad as a norm any more.

  12. Vonnie says:

    Looks like a lovely place to explore. When you have a sweet craving try this Oreo Tower Cheesecake recipe by yours truly:

  13. Hi Rosemary, great post, even though the food sounds as though it could have been a little better. I find that I appreciate the better restaurants so much more after one of those meals :-! Here’s wishing you all the very best for 2014, and I hope that you’ll have good news very soon!!

  14. Bassa's Blog says:

    Troyes looks beautiful. I love medieval architecture.

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